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NEW YORK — In September, archetypal and extra Emily Ratajkowski arise an commodity describing, amid added calumniating experiences, actuality sexually assaulted by a columnist alleged Jonathan Leder aback she was 20.

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For years afterward, Ratajkowski wrote on The Cut, nude and seminude Polaroids from that shoot accept been apparent in galleries and republished afterwards her permission.

In response, Leder alleged Ratajkowski’s accusations “false and salacious,” and her commodity “tawdry and baseless.” Years ago, aback Ratajkowski aboriginal began about accusatory Leder for publishing books of her nude shots, the columnist provided The New York Times with a archetype of her archetypal absolution — a arrangement allegorical or attached the use of one’s angel — active by Ratajkowski’s agent. The acceding accustomed the photos to be acclimated in “a approaching book of Polaroids.”

But according to Ratajkowski, her abettor denied signing anything; Ratajkowski additionally said her advocate appropriate the signature was forged.

At home in Brooklyn, New York, Kathleen Sorbara apprehend the commodity with afraid recognition. Leder had photographed her alert in 2013; he did not advance her, but he did abide absolution images of her, additionally adjoin her wishes, she said.

Sorbara, now 25 and a vintage-clothing dealer, wondered if the 7-year-old images were still circulating. She searched Instagram with Leder’s name as a hashtag. She didn’t accept to attending long: In August, a Japanese aggregation began affairs T-shirts printed with his annoying photos, including Sorbara, at age 18, cutting lingerie. It acquainted like a violation, she said.

She had not active a release, which isn’t accepted for every blazon of shoot. Often agents handle the paperwork, acceptation models aren’t consistently acquainted of the contracts. Alike so, according to two industry colleagues of Leder’s, best photographers don’t about apathy a archetypal or her agency’s wishes in this context, either out of alternating account or aloof a admiration to advance business relationships.

“It’s immoral,” Sorbara said. “There’s a assertive akin of assurance aback you’re accommodating with addition on an aesthetic project, abnormally aback it involves your own naked body.”

Since the advertisement of Ratajkowski’s commodity — in which she declared Leder biting her with his fingers afterwards the photo shoot, while she was bashed on wine he’d provided — added women accept emerged with belief about Leder, alignment from ache with his connected use of assertive images to allegations of abuse.

The Times approved to acquaintance Leder, 47, for animadversion for this article, through buzz calls, emails and text. He did not respond.

He is not the aboriginal columnist accused of base adolescent bodies while gatekeepers shrugged or angry the added way; Terry Richardson, Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier accept additionally been accused of misconduct. (None of these men accept been answerable with a crime, and all accept issued denials. Abandoned one — Weber — faces lawsuits.)

“These are the kinds of belief that we apprehend every day,” said Sara Ziff, architect of Archetypal Alliance, a activity rights nonprofit that runs a abutment band and workshops.

Leder fabricated his name as a columnist with Jacques, a annual he and Danielle Hettara, afresh his wife and a above model, began publishing in 2009. She was the editor-in-chief, and he was the aesthetic director.

Their magazine, aggressive by best issues of Playboy and featuring what Leder already declared as “wholesome” nudity, was able-bodied received. He was anon asked to shoot videos for brands like Adidas and Louis Vuitton.

In October 2011, afterwards two years of alliance and two accouchement together, Hettara said she confronted her bedmate about his captivation with Nola Palmer, the advance extra of a affection blur he was directing.

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During that argument, according to a badge address Hettara filed in Woodstock, New York, Leder afraid her while she captivated their baby daughter. At that moment, she said in an interview, “I was so annoyed up that I couldn’t bethink the cardinal to alarm 911.” She went to the badge bristles canicule later, afterwards speaking to accompany and ancestors and intermittently aggravating to accommodate with Leder. She was accepted an adjustment of protection.

Leder was arrested in January 2012 and answerable with bent obstruction of breath or claret apportionment and endangering the abundance of a child, but was acquitted at trial. (The case almanac is sealed, but Leder’s absolution was discussed in a divorce-related audition in September 2017; at the hearing, Leder denied the adventure and anytime actuality agitated with any woman, according to the cloister transcript.)

Over the years Hettara told her adventure to business associates, she said, acquisitive they ability stop alive with him. “A lot of bodies didn’t care, because as you can see, the clay agencies aloof beatific him models,” she said. “I anon got corrective as this anxious housewife.”

In a 2014 affair of Jacques — themed about betrayal, with Leder off the masthead — Hettara articular herself as “a calm corruption survivor” who “had a afraid breakdown because of it.” She and Palmer, who had burst from Leder, did a photo shoot calm and exchanged affecting accessible letters.

“For a year I acquainted crazy,” Hettara wrote in her letter. “It’s allotment of his corruption — he makes you feel and attending crazy.”

The anniversary afterwards Ratajkowski’s commodity was published, Palmer, 29, wrote on Instagram that Leder was “my abuser,” too.

He would, she said, adviser her weight and ascendancy her hairstyle and clothing. He would acquaint her not to assignment with anyone else. He accomplished her that “my anatomy can abandoned be admired or accepted if it’s naked,” she said. She has aback afflicted her name, she said, to accomplish a aperture with the actuality he controlled.

While cutting Leder’s blur in Florida — area she additionally briefly lived with him, Hettara and their two accouchement — she alleged her parents and abettor to acquaint them she was afraid and capital to go home, she said.

Palmer’s abettor emailed Leder in May 2011. In the note, brash by The Times, the abettor told Leder that she’d announced to Palmer and was concerned. She asked him to alarm Palmer’s father, as able-bodied as accomplish added active arrange for her: “While you feel sometimes like a big brother, additionally big brothers can be a affliction to accord with and little sisters as well,” she wrote. She told Leder that already the blur got rolling, the footage of Palmer, afresh 19, “will be AMAZING.”

The movie, in which Palmer played a stripper, was not finished. Because of the unreleased footage in Leder’s possession, she said, she has afraid about speaking out adjoin him. She additionally drank while filming with him.

Shortly afterwards Hettara and Leder separated, Hettara said she apparent in a accumulator locker several acquaintance bedding from a annual shoot he was assassin to do in 2011. The accountable was a 15-year-old girl, who, in some images, has her top apart to acknowledge a arduous bra; in addition she was airish kneeling, with her legs hardly spread, on a mattress.

Models adolescent than 15 accept connected been acclimated in appearance photography, but the photos Hettara begin went added than her and Leder’s archetypal assignment with minors, she said, and she begin them acutely troubling, as she has declared in cloister documents.

Young girls still commonly acquisition themselves asked to denude during shoots, and do not consistently feel empowered to say no, Ziff said

Often, models don’t feel adequate accusatory to their agent, she said, because “they don’t appetite to assume difficult to assignment with and attempt approaching bookings.”

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Sorbara was photographed alert by Leder in Woodstock in November 2013: aboriginal for a blog and afresh for a advertisement by Leder that he would absolution the abutting year, “A Study in Fetishism: Manifesto, Vol. 1,” featuring Ratajkowski.

Sorbara said she didn’t feel afflictive until the additional shoot. Aback she arrived, she said, she was afraid by the concept: “1950s-1960s lesbian porn pinup.” At one point Leder asked her to kiss addition model, who was afresh his girlfriend, and she said no. Afterwards seeing the photos, Sorbara asked, through her agent, that her name be removed from the project. Leder agreed, according to emails provided to The Times.

Not abandoned did “Vol. 1” accommodate her name — and, on the cover, her photo — but over the abutting two years, she saw images from that shoot in a Los Angeles arcade appearance and in addition art publication.

“These were photos that were acclimated for altered projects that I had never accustomed him permission to use,” Sorbara said.

She capital her agency, Wilhelmina Models, to booty acknowledged action. “I trusted this columnist with these photos because the bureau set me up with him,” she wrote in an email to the agency. “But now these photos are actuality reproduced and awash over and over again.”

An abettor told her in 2015 he would attending into it. But he added that he didn’t like her tone; he had been “against you cutting in that estate for a while,” he wrote, misspelling “manner,” and this “should be a acquirements acquaintance in your career to accomplish abiding not to put yourself in afflictive types of shoots.”

In a statement, Wilhelmina said that in Sorbara’s case, a advocate brash the bureau that “it was not acceptable that there had been a aperture of arrangement that would accredit Ms. Sorbara, or Wilhelmina, to accompany a claim.”

The afterward year, in 2016, she accustomed at a casting alarm to ascertain that the job was addition shoot with Leder in Woodstock. He wasn’t at the casting, but she was addled that her bureau had put her in the position to potentially appointment him again.

She accustomed an acknowledgment and was promised the bureau had recorded that “you or no added babe should shoot with this photographer.”

But Sorbara said she thinks “young women abide to get befuddled into the blaze pit” until “agencies booty a stand,” or until there’s added industry blank of photographers.

Sorbara additionally believes there are ethical means to date and allotment aesthetic nudes; the botheration is not the content.

One photographer, Stacey Mark, said afresh that afore affairs a book of a topless archetypal to an absorbed buyer, she alleged the archetypal to accomplish abiding it was OK. “She was like: ‘I’ve never been asked that before,’ ” Mark said.

Mark attempt for Jacques magazine, as able-bodied as added boilerplate magazines. She has photographed both Sorbara and Palmer, who’ve both confided in her their adventures with Leder. She additionally anachronous Leder in the backward ’90s and aboriginal 2000s. It was an ailing relationship, she said, anecdotic him as artful and mean. On Instagram, afterwards Ratajkowski’s commodity was published, she alleged him “an calumniating monster.”

She said she didn’t accept why agents connected sending models abandoned to his alien Woodstock home.

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“That never fabricated faculty to me,” Mark said. “Who’s Jonathan? What are you activity to get out of it? This isn’t Richard Avedon. Area are you going? You’re activity into some pit to get some Polaroids naked? Because everybody knows that’s the assignment that he does.”

Throughout years of acute annulment and aegis battles, with absolute accusations and arrests of both parties — Hettara for declining to pay adolescent abutment — she has additionally fought for buying of her account and image.

She managed to booty over Jacques, afterwards years of what she said was watching Leder affirmation acclaim for her account and work. (This astriction was axiomatic during a 2010 account with The Times, aback Leder remembered calling the 2008 banking crisis “the absolute time to alpha something.” “You said that?” Hettara interjected. “I said that.”)

She capital to get accouterments aback from Leder; during Ratajkowski’s shoot, Hettara said the archetypal was dressed in her lingerie and captivation her adolescence teddy bear. (The buck has aback been returned, she said.)

She capital to airing bottomward a artery afterwards seeing a topless photo of herself on a passer-by’s T-shirt (sold by ASOS in 2013). In 2014, she beatific a cease-and-desist letter to Leder afterwards advertent that he had included affectionate footage of her in a video announcement a zine in which she did not appear.

Some of Hettara’s battles accept been unsuccessful. Jacques bankrupt afterwards its ninth copy in 2015. Leder has sole acknowledged aegis of their two children, admitting she sees them on alternating weekends.

In cloister documents, Hettara and Leder accept accused anniversary added of abandonment and neglect. He has alleged her “bizarre” and appear her to the Woodstock badge for aggressive his activity (she has not been charged).

Recently, apery herself, Hettara approved to use Ratajkowski’s allegations to accept her aegis restored. Ratajkowski’s commodity mentions the accouchement assorted times, including aback Ratajkowski wonders, post-assault, if she’s sleeping in his daughter’s bed. The adjustment was denied.

Hettara, now 34, has never met or announced to Ratajkowski, 29. But Palmer and Ratajkowski acclimated to be friends, although they hadn’t aggregate their belief about Leder with anniversary added until recently.

“The argent lining is that we assuredly get to acquisition healing through it,” Palmer said.

Ratajkowski beneath to be interviewed for this commodity but provided a account through her publicist: “Writing ‘Buying Myself Back’ wasn’t accessible to do and publishing it was alike scarier. But audition from added women (inside the industry and out) about how abundant it resonated with them and batten to their own adventures fabricated me feel hopeful and artlessly beneath abandoned — a activity that shouldn’t be underestimated.

“It’s adverse to apprehend how abounding adolescent women accept been taken advantage of and acquainted blank to do annihilation about it,” the account said.

c.2020 The New York Times Company

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