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What is ‘good hair’ anyway?

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It depends who you’re asking. If we’re basing it on the mainstream, and let’s be honest – about white – beard artefact ads and magazines spreads, it would apparently beggarly beard which has volume, flash and a bland and cottony texture. For those of Afro-Caribbean heritage, however, ‘good hair’ takes on a accomplished new meaning, one which allegorical hairstylist Charlotte Mensah has rebranded for her new book, the aptly-titled Acceptable Hair.

With audience such as Michaela Coel, Jourdan Dunn and June Sarpong on her list, Mensah’s acceptability as the go-to hairstylist for afro and coiled beard precedes her. Following the accident of her mother at age 13, her adventure began back she took over beard affliction duties for her adolescent sister. This birthed a affection for aggregate haircare from braiding to dyeing and beginning cuts.

Mensah packs an absorbing resumé which includes administration for the boilerplate chump in charge of some beard TLC at her eponymous salon on Portobello road, administration on beat photoshoots and aerial contour contest and alike absolution her own band of beard articles (she swears by the Manketti Oil).  Now she’s aggregate all of her ability into the anew appear Acceptable Hair. 

The appellation is a nod to what it agency to accept advantageous and adorable locks, yes, but it additionally references the Eurocentric adorableness standards that accept bedeviled Afro-Caribbean communities for centuries, with ‘good hair’ generally acceptation beard which is continued and apart rather than coiled or deeply coiled.

Mensah’s capital adviser to afro, textured and coiled beard flips this abundant appellation upside down, alms advice, ability and amore for bodies with coiled and coiled beard who may not accept had admission or acknowledgment to the key advice they bare growing up.

We bent up with the hairstylist to babble about her acceleration to the top, tips for attractive afterwards accustomed hair, and why every babe with kinks and coils needs a archetype of Acceptable Hair.

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How did you get your alpha in hair?

I larboard the UK back I was three months old to alive with my grandparents in Accra, Ghana.  I bethink my aunties consistently accepting nice hairstyles and there was a woman who acclimated to appear to their abode and cilia their hair. I enjoyed  watching them accepting it done but I never anticipation that afterwards in my activity I’d be a hairstylist. At the age of 11 I abutting my mum in the UK and I’d watch my mum do my sister’s beard and she would do abundance as well. Sadly my mum anesthetized abroad back I was 13 so I took over with my sister’s beard and would braid, canerow and ablution it. Every time I did her beard it acquainted like mum was about and that fabricated us band more. I afterwards got a job at the aboriginal atramentous salon to accessible up in the UK alleged Splinters and it was run by the backward Winston Isaacs.  I started to adore accomplishing beard on a able akin and it aloof acquainted like a blessed amplitude back the aftermost four years of my activity had been absolutely traumatic. Bodies would appear in and we’d allotment belief so it acquainted like a healing process. Splinters was the alone amazing abode in the UK that specialised in coiled textures and it was known. Bodies were advancing from all over the world. You could accept colour and braids all in this one place. It acquainted like home. 

Your favourite celebrity clients?

Gallery: I’ve Dyed My Mum’s Beard For 8 Years, and Josh Wood Beard Colour Is the Best We’ve Ever Acclimated (PopSugar)

There are so many. To me, all of my audience are celebrities whether they’re advancing from academy or aloof about to alpha their career journey. I will say that addition I can consistently affix with is Erykah Badu. We accept a abundant affiliation and she’s a actual altered blazon of woman in agreement of her angle in life. We’re both actual airy and back I met her it was like I’d accepted her forever. 

Why did you address this book?

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[The atramentous community] has a lot of issues about our beard and for so abounding years we’ve had this adamant European accepted of adorableness activated on us. Because of this we absorb so abounding years abusing our beard and absent to attending like these images at the accident of beard loss. I’ve had girls advancing into my salon who are 15-year-old and cutting wigs. I ask, ‘why are you cutting a wig? Where is your hair?’ I’m not adage you shouldn’t abrasion wigs – you’re chargeless to actualize whatever you appetite with your beard – but there charge be a balance. It’s absolutely demanding back you anticipate about it psychologically with how they feel about themselves. Beard is a big affair to us and we’re so advantageous our beard is so versatile; we can accept it beeline one day and coily addition day. This book is a added compassionate of what beard agency to us and what we can do to save our beard today and abounding added years to come. I consistently anticipation my aboriginal book would be a massive coffee table book with lots and lots of pictures of all of my beard collections – I never knew it would be me administration my adventure with the world. The book is aggregate from apprenticeship to afflatus for you to get up and do article with your life.

What’s your analogue of ‘good hair?’

All beard is acceptable hair. It’s about us accepting, honouring and affectionate it. For so continued we’ve had these adamant account of what it should attending like. It doesn’t amount whether it’s two inches or ten inches, whether it’s coiled or coily, bouncing or straight. It’s aloof about alive what you can do to accomplish your beard attending amazing.  Yes, we should be able to be versatile, but the key is to apperceive how to attending afterwards the beard that grows out of your head.

How does ability and history comedy a role in the ability of atramentous hair?

Black beard is not beard that you can aloof acreage off of to anyone to do it for you. We accept a lot of airy access with our hair. In assertive African tribes your beard communicates aggregate from whether you’re accessible for alliance or whether you’re of a assertive rank in society. In genitalia of Ghana and Nigeria, back you lose a apron you barber your beard absolutely and alpha afresh so that’s allotment of a ritual. In added genitalia of Africa, back you accept a babyish you additionally barber your beard off because it’s advice to the ancestors to say that a new being who is allotment of this bloodline has arrived. There’s so abundant to it.

Charlotte’s 5 top tips for advantageous accustomed hair:

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1. Be affable with your hair. Back detangling, booty your time and assignment your way up to the roots actual gently, application the appropriate tools.

2. Don’t balloon to get approved trims. A lot of bodies are walking about with two years of asleep beard after realising it. 

3. Approved treatments. If you appetite your beard to abide nourished, hydrated and moisturised, accomplish abiding you go for approved treatments.

4. Consistently beddy-bye with a cottony scarf. 

5. Acceptable beard starts from the inside. Are you sleeping enough, bubbler abundant baptize and bistro properly? Alike your brainy and affecting wellbeing affects your hair, so you charge to accumulate on top of these areas too.

Good Hair: The Capital Adviser to Afro, Textured and Coiled Beard is accessible to buy now.

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